Soft shell crab dipped in batter, lightly fried and coated with a thick curry sauce that clings to the crab and crisp sauteed vegetables--this was the dish I couldn't stop thinking about after my first visit to Bangkok Boulevard, the brand new Thai restaurant taking over the space that used to be Fashion Dim Sum.
It's called Pad Pong Karee, or Stir Fried Dry Curry ($18.95) and, according to owners Candy Tavornmas and Nath Bhimthithi (pronounced "Nat"), it's a difficult curry to make, consisting of half and half, eggs, chili paste, and curry powder.
But passion for the street food of Bangkok is what drives them, and what led to opening their first restaurant -- a dream seven years in the making. So what if this curry is hard to make? Nath and Candy love it, and they believe that cooking the dishes they love will pave their road to success here. I am 100% on board with this vision, because every bite of pillowy, savory, sweet, and mildly spicy curry crab tasted like dreams and success to me. (And yes, you can eat the entire crab! I've always wondered...)
My eyes skimmed right over Thai menu regulars like Panang Curry, Tom Yum Soup and Pad See Ew, instead landing on unfamiliar dishes with inviting, fun names. This led to ordering Todd Maad Kung, or "Shrimp Cakes" ($12.95), also known as "Donuts I Can Finally Get Excited About." I mean, just look at them. Do they seem to be light, crunchy, chock full of shrimp, and miraculously non-greasy? You have observed correctly. Divine donuts. (The Kung Hom Paa ($14.95), shrimp bean curd wraps, were equally impressive, but not as photogenic).
Sticking with fun names, Kao Yum Kai Zapp ($18.95) is crispy chicken, red onions, cabbage, and carrots, topped with with a spicy dressing made of lime, fish sauce, sugar, and mint--basically a larb gai dressing party of flavors. When Nath told me this is Kentucky Fried Chicken's "Special Dish" in Thailand, that fact multiplied the fun even more.
KFC. Are you aware of how big this chain is overseas? I wasn't until I lived in Ho Chi Minh City. It's huge. My Vietnamese 6th graders at the American International School loved everything about KFC. Right down the street from KFC, in the alley next to my house, two men made the best fried chicken I've ever tasted for half the price. But my students only wanted Kentucky Fried Chicken, original recipe, with a side of mashed potatoes. Here's a link reviewing Asian special KFC dishes, in case you're interested:
Thailand Taste Test):
And here's a copycat Thai KFC Rice Bowl recipe (which I have not yet tried): KFC Spicy Rice Bowl. If it tastes anything like Bangkok Boulevard's version, I'm in. I loved every sweet, sour crunchy bite of this salad-over-rice.
I learned so much about the food of Bangkok while talking to Nath--like how the city incorporates not only dishes from every region of Thailand, but from all over Asia as well, putting their regional Bangkok strong-flavored stamp on everything. I also learned that although Pad Thai is ubiquitous in America, it is but one of many equally well-loved noodle dishes...it's kind of "no big deal" there. Neither are chopsticks. For curries and stir-fries, Thais use a spoon in their left hand, with a right-hand fork assist to scoop up all of the good stuff. Sometimes they use chopsticks for noodles, but...why not use a fork? With a spoon?
This place made me happy on so many levels-- Candy and Nath's kindness, their enthusiasm about my curiosity, and the simple beauty of the food itself, like this Eggplant Chili Sauce with Tofu ($15.95), one of many vegetarian/vegan menu options.
Plus, I made steps toward healing a years-old wound just by the act of eating "Thai Street Food" on Highway 99. In 2010, the worst case of food poisoning of my life hit me when I crossed the border from Laos to Thailand. Instead of eating the Chiang Mai street noodles, curries, fermented grilled sausages and crispy pancakes I'd been dreaming about, I could eat only bananas for four days. In Bangkok, the only thing that sounded good was a McDonald's hamburger.
Now, fourteen years later, two people have brought Bangkok's street food to me. (And you.)
Healing food.
Dreams and success.
Please visit soon, and do your (very important) homework!
Thai iced green tea:
Today's Homework
Order a Thai dish that just sounds fun (you can try the Pad Thai next time)!
Review in the Edmonds Beacon:
Bangkok Boulevard
22923 Hwy 99
Edmonds, WA 98026
425-967-6926
Open Daily
Mon-Tues, 4pm-9pm
Wed-Fri, 11am-9pm
Sat-Sun, 11:30am-9pm
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