On a birthday during The Covid Years, my only request was to drive to Centralia for mole and tamales on a tip from a friend. We made the mistake of bringing our car-hating pit bull, who panted with anxiety all the way there and back. And the tamales...they were okay, I guess. A bit dry, a bit too much masa. (More about the mole below.)
Two years later, on a tip from another friend, I left the (grateful) dog at home and drove to Panaderia y Carniceria los Portales in Lynnwood, just 6.2 miles from my house. There I found better tamales, spiced just right, made of light, airy masa and perfectly steamed -- nothing dry or crumbly about them.
In this post, I'm giving you just two of many reasons to go to this recently-expanded Mexican grocery store. Both of them involve going to the very far back corner, where you will find a cart. This cart is full of good things.
Reason #1: Tamales, of course!
Get one of each ($2.75 each or $30/dozen): rajas (poblano chiles and cheese), chicken, pork, and elote (sweet corn). If you don't mind a little heat, order a pint of their fresh jalapeno/cactus salsa ($6.99/lb) to go with them (or see other salsa options below). Cool everything down with a Mango Strawberry Agua Fresca (cool fruit water with just the right amount of sugar), because you'll want this when you eat two of your tamales in the car while they're still warm from the steamer.
Reason #2: To Make Carnitas Tacos for Lots of People:
When you are assigned to cook lunch for 13 people during your family week at the lake, and you have to buy everything in advance because there isn't a store near the lake house, I've got you. Order 5 lbs. of boneless pork shoulder bathing in its own fatty juices (carnitas, $7.99/lb) from the magic cart. On the counter above the pork you'll find freshly made corn tortillas wrapped in foil. Pick up at least three dozen ($5.99/dozen), because you're thinking ahead about breakfast tacos.
Now head over to the refrigerated section and get some house-made, mild, chunky green tomatillo salsa (Verda, $3.99 - the tostada salsa is very hot, fyi). You'll find shelves full of tortillas near there...get the green ones, made of jalapeno, cilantro, and cactus. The fresh tortillas are superior, but these are flavorful and just a little spicy, and your family will appreciate the variety. Go to the produce section for your cilantro, onions, avocados and limes. Now you have everything you need!
About 30 minutes before serving your meal, heat a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium high heat and throw in the pork. It will begin to render in its own fat and get crispy on the ends. Make sure you adjust the heat so it doesn't burn, and stir every so often. While the carnitas crisp, dice your onions and cilantro, and slice your avocados and limes.
Here are some choices when it comes to heating your tortillas:
1) Stove
Heat them in a large, flat non-stick or cast iron skillet over medium-high heat for 40-50 seconds per side, then cover in a kitchen towel to keep them warm.
2) Microwave
Put a damp paper towel on a plate, place three or four tortillas on top, and microwave for 30 seconds.
3) Oven
Preheat the oven to 200°F. Place tortillas loosely on a baking sheet (okay to overlap) and bake for 8-10 minutes.
My preferred method is definitely on the stove, but the oven method is the way to go for a large group.
Now you're ready to set everything out for some fun taco-building family time! (Whatever you do, don't forget the lime!)
My taco picture didn't turn out well, so I'm using this picture from
What's Gabby Cooking? because her tacos look the most like mine, and she can also lead you through the carnitas cooking process with more detail:
If your status doesn't go up a level after preparing this lunch for your family--if they don't call you a genius and forgive you for that thing you did in high school--well, something is wrong with them. Not you.
A few notes:
1) You don't have to crisp the pork...it is delicious as-is. Just heat it up, and everyone will be happy. Everyone will be even happier, though, with crispy pork.
2) I love adding pickled red onions to my carnitas tacos. This simple recipe from Love and Lemons is great:
Pickled Red Onions. Actually, I add pickled red onions to
so many things!
There's a whole lot to explore when you venture beyond the cart. This store is vast. Their marinated meat selection is intriguing--especially the marinated carne asada, ready to grill--and they carry rare imports like Oaxacan string cheese, straight from Oaxaca and perfect for melting. Dried chilies, bottled salsas, soursop leaves, pinatas, Mexican pottery and candy...what do you need? I think you'll find it here, in a place that smells, sounds, and tastes just like Mexico. Oh, and don't expect everyone to speak English...after all, you are traveling to another country.
What's your favorite vegan taco recipe? I've been experimenting with ideas from Be a Plant-Based Woman Warrior. Leave your recipe or cookbook recommendation in the comments, decide which one you want to make, and go buy your fresh tortillas!
Los Portales
15620 Hwy 99 S Suite 1, Lynnwood, WA 98087
425-745-9430
Open 5 AM-11 PM Daily
*Mole addendum: The Centralia birthday mole was good, but we also picked up some to-go mole from Taqueria Juquilita in Chehalis, which was so far superior that we've been back multiple times. If you go, also try their Chicken Pipian!
Taqueria Juquilita, 917 SW 917 SW Cascade Ave, Chehalis, WA 98532
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